by John Slamson
“Aïdée and Florian Sirven are passionate people. Their needles and shears follow the chalkline of honesty and authenticity.
What makes Maison Sirven a truly authentic tailoring business, on a par with the older established names that both Aïdée and Florian worked with, is the eternal and obvious secret of tailoring, to wit, the mastery of two essential aspects—technique and aesthetics. Or, to put it more plainly, producing clothes representing the best of true tailoring is based on high quality stitching and shaping on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the refinement of the cut.
Aïdée and Florian are heirs to a very special tradition. They are among the rare tailors who have learnt methods and procedures that were uniquely developed in Paris by the likes of Joseph Camps, Francesco Smalto, Claude Rousseau, Henri Urban… They keep the tradition alive by using the inherited skills and system, the special secrets and crafty tricks—and by renewing this legacy in the process.
Maison Sirven is the youngest bespoke house in Paris. Quite logically, it’s the most promising, the most dynamic. Aïdée and Florian Sirven show what vivacious tradition is about, a constant attention to each suit as a personal challenge.
To meet those challenges, they have their own brand of conscientious virtuosity— are there still many tailors who can produce a collar that rolls with such gentle purity? They use the “cassure creuse” (“hollow break”) technique, something they inherited directly from Francesco Smalto.
And can you not marvel at the outer edge of the lapel on their single-breasted jackets? The slight curve, just on the cusp of ceasing to be straight, is a demonstration that they can balance the tiniest details with supreme mastery, manipulate the most minute minutiae, and show us that things that might seem most minimal turn out to be essential.
And if you only saw them at work! Actually, you can—contrary to many tailors, the workshop and the customers’ area are not separated. There’s the cutter’s table across the room, separating reception and making, the two inescapable stages of any bespoke suit—decisions on one side, production on the other. Trying clothes on and working things out. Hesitation and resolution. The outside and the inside of the clothes.
Only when you see their irons furrowing concavities, their needles thoughtfully zigzagging through the canvas, the measurements transformed from abstract figures into a paper pattern and the pattern fashioning up into an actual three-dimensional miracle, can you fully grasp the connection between art and artisans.”